Penny / OD

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mechoption
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by mechoption » Wed Jun 30, 2010 2:19 pm

Rockthesail wrote:so after my last sail i noticed a disturbing amount of water in my hull, which has put my "all in one" spin halyard project on hold. i pressurized the hull and went around with soapy water and found a couple of little things on the hull, and some pretty bad spots in the daggerboard trunk. does anyone else know of any weakspots i should also check out?
Hmm, that sucks. I'm leaking a bit too - seems to be the inspection hatches not sealed well plus deck fittings on mine. My hull also appears to be water tight between the compartments, so water in the front can't get to the bung when I try and drain on the beach, so I have to spend ~10 mins each time sponging water out from each of the compartments :(
Cross III Penultimate I14, 1986, "Grin", CAN519
Kirby 1? I14, 1968, "Agamemnon", CAN324 (sold)

hawkeye
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by hawkeye » Wed Aug 18, 2010 5:25 am

Hello,

I'm restoring an One Design 14 and is missing the mast. I will try to rebuild a mast from another dinghy (FD) for it instead.
Could anybody help with the roughly OD14-dimensions for heel to gooseneck, gooseneck to jib halyard sheave, gooseneck to spinnaker halyard sheave and gooseneck to top of main?

It will be very helpfull if somebody could provide me with this information.

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Rockthesail
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by Rockthesail » Fri Oct 01, 2010 4:46 pm

I know my mast is roughly 21-22 feet, i am currently not with my boat, but might be able to get pictures and measurments to you in a couple of weeks. i have the standard rig, which only has one set of stays and is single trapeze and a smaller spin. If it were up to me, i would try find, or replicate the grand prix rig. North sails still makes sails for both rigs.
Matt Connolly
1987 Bruce Boatworks OD14 Standard Rig "ON A PLANE"
Live Slow...Sail Fast

hawkeye
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by hawkeye » Mon Oct 04, 2010 5:13 am

Hello Matt,

Thank's for the answer. I had to say that its the Gran Prix rig measurements that I'm looking for and I would be very happy if I can get dimensions of a Gran Prix-kite also (luff, leach and foot).

NewPennySailor
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by NewPennySailor » Tue Jan 18, 2011 1:53 pm

Could someone post pictures of the shroud tensioning system on a penultimate boat. It seems I have the block mounting plate on my boat just not the blocks. Just wondering how that all works.

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Shu
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by Shu » Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:32 am

First off NPS, welcome to the class.
It all depends on what penultimate boat you have. Even boats of the same design are often rigged differently. Your best bet is to post a picture of the block mounting plate and your general boat setup, particularly in the mast/shroud area. Someone here is probably familiar with what you have, and could give you guidance.
It is also an opportunity for you to decide what you would like: pin-adjusters? calibrated turnbuckles? cascading block and tackle system? We each have free reign to customize our own boats.
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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mechoption
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by mechoption » Mon Jan 31, 2011 11:07 pm

NewPennySailor wrote:Could someone post pictures of the shroud tensioning system on a penultimate boat. It seems I have the block mounting plate on my boat just not the blocks. Just wondering how that all works.
There's some pics in my I14 photo gallery that show the shroud tensioning system on my Cross-III Penny (https://picasaweb.google.com/steve.livingstone/Gin#)
Cross III Penultimate I14, 1986, "Grin", CAN519
Kirby 1? I14, 1968, "Agamemnon", CAN324 (sold)

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Rockthesail
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by Rockthesail » Tue Jun 07, 2011 3:18 pm

So i am thinking of re-doing my jib lead system because mine has a lot of friction in it (AKA when i uncleat the jib i need to physically pull the line through in order to actually release the jib), and was wondering what you guys thought of your setups. do they trim right, is there a lot of friction, do they get in the way? and basically anything else (mechoption i like yours specifically because it runs through blocks for less frictions, and i already have the camcleats)

I have two sections of T track that i was thinking of modifying (the car) with a stainless U bolt in order to mount a block on it any thoughts?
Photo on 2011-06-07 at 11.09.jpg
section of T track, with old fairlead / cleat car
Matt Connolly
1987 Bruce Boatworks OD14 Standard Rig "ON A PLANE"
Live Slow...Sail Fast

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rand
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by rand » Tue Jun 07, 2011 5:09 pm

The most important thing you can do is to replace those cleats. Some people use Harken, but I think the Ronstan graphite ones are the easiest to get out of the cleat. You don't have to pull, just lift.

Rarely does a boat have a track anymore, you can get rid of that and go with a fixed block, the auto-ratchets are nice, friction when you need it, none when you don't, then put in a simple Barber hauler system to adjust your lead up and down.

Some boats have a 2-1 on their jib leads (I don't), which can make trimming much easier. (Of course the newest boats have self-tacking jibs...)
Rand Arnold
International 14 USA 1143
"A Bumblebee Called Kate"
(former US President, former US Measurer)

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Rockthesail
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by Rockthesail » Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:54 pm

hmm i never thought of a barberhauler. if you could maybe snap a pic that would be helpful. my thought about reusing the track is that i have the space, and the hardware already (and, as a broke college kid, can't afford new ratcheting blocks)

I already have nice harken cam cleats and angle risers, so the ones on the track now will not be used.. if you look back in the tread a bit, you can see what my current setup is, and also the other setups that i am referring to.
Matt Connolly
1987 Bruce Boatworks OD14 Standard Rig "ON A PLANE"
Live Slow...Sail Fast

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mechoption
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by mechoption » Wed Jun 08, 2011 2:56 am

This is my current setup - works but not the best as the angle into the fixed block is a little off (friction on the rope), and the angle to the crew is too low (have to use their feet to get it in the cleat). Ideally I'd replace the fixed block and cleat with one of those swiveling blocks with the cleat attached, but they are somewhat $$ and I rarely crew anyway 8) For now I got some harken angled spacers (not in picture) that let me twist the cleat up to get a better angle to the crew - haven't had any decent wind to try that out yet.

The block is a load sensing ratchet block and is awesome. A wise investment that I kept from my last I14 :)
Attachments
jib.JPG
Cross III Penultimate I14, 1986, "Grin", CAN519
Kirby 1? I14, 1968, "Agamemnon", CAN324 (sold)

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Re: Penny / OD

Post by Maize_and_Blue » Mon May 14, 2012 4:46 pm

Hi,
I just bought an '88 Ontario Yachts OD 14. The boat boat is in decent condition, but a lot of the running rigging is not correctly set-up. I'm hoping I can get a little advice from those of you that have more experience with the OD 14's. I'd be glad to share anything I know with others looking for advice.

One of the first things that I have noticed is the rigging of the tack line. The line currently leaves a jam cleat aft of the retracted sprit, leads through the sprit, and then exits through the plastic cap at the forward end of the sprit. The line then continues down to a hole in the lower bow to act as a bobstay. The sprit does not have any additional hardware at the forward end. When retracted, the pole does not extend beyond the mast, so it is definitely not a GP OD 14. My first though is that the hole in the bow is a retrofit and the tack line should not be tied there (just directly to the tack of the spin). Is the bobstay necessary for the shorter sprit? If it is required, I'm guessing it would be best to install a pair of thru-deck blocks on the forward end of the sprit and not use the hole in the end cap. Thoughts?

Thank you in advance for your advice. I'm sure there will be a few more questions to follow. Looking forward to getting the boat sailing.

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Rockthesail
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by Rockthesail » Tue May 15, 2012 4:07 pm

I don't have the GP rig either, and I have no bobstay. The system works well for me. I don't know whether the difference in rigging between GP and non GP was personal preference, or whether the bobstay was there for support, but I don't think you need it on the non GP rig. If you want to keep the bobstay I think the plastic cap should be fine, mine seems to be slippery like some sort of a teflon plastic, and should feed fine, I would only change it if need be.
Matt Connolly
1987 Bruce Boatworks OD14 Standard Rig "ON A PLANE"
Live Slow...Sail Fast

Maize_and_Blue
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by Maize_and_Blue » Tue May 15, 2012 6:16 pm

Thank you for the advice Matt. I'll give it a go without the bobstay. It makes sense that the deflections of the shorter sprit wouldn't warrant it, as proved by your boat. Maybe a previous owner had both rigs, and placed the hole in the bow knuckle for the GP rig only? Who knows? I can certainly make tweaks after my first sail. For now it is certainly about getting the boat in a condition where nothing will break and everything runs smoothly on shore... then I can figure out what needs to be improved after testing it on the water.

Does your shroud tensioning system follow up the forward side of the mast after coming inboard? The system on my boat appears to terminate at a jam cleat a few feet up the mast... I'm a little worried about relying on that. The turning blocks near the mast base are also missing, so I'll have to sort that out. I've seen systems that lead forward of the mast and come back to a cam cleat mounted on the forward deck. Any pictures or descriptions of existing systems would be much appreciated.

Thanks again for all the help.

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Rockthesail
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Re: Penny / OD

Post by Rockthesail » Wed May 16, 2012 2:52 am

on the water time is really the only way to work out kinks.. of which i still have many.

the shroud tensioning system sounds right. mine does the same thing. The shroud comes down and clips to a block with a tackle on it which is connected to a purchase system (3:1 i think) that is all located around/on the aluminum plate run with spectra that then runs to blocks near the mast step, and then to another block and tackle (at this point the lines from each shroud come together.. it is actually all one piece of spectra with a figure eight on the bight in the middle, then going out to each side) the next block and tackle gets shackled to an eyelet on the mast. and then the tail end of that purchase system(6:1 i think) goes to the jam cleat. the jam cleat is fine. although the force is still significant, it should be about 1/9th the force on the actual shrouds. I hope this, and the picture helps. unfortunately the picture is one i had taken for another purpose some time ago. i am not at home to take pictures of the boat, or i would do so.
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My boat.JPG
Matt Connolly
1987 Bruce Boatworks OD14 Standard Rig "ON A PLANE"
Live Slow...Sail Fast

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