My new boat

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Mon Jul 30, 2012 5:09 pm

Rand,
I've only launched it twice at the beach, once when it was howling but with very smooth water. The titanium pin is incredibly strong. See the entry several posts ago where I dropped the boat onto the pin and it skidded backward over the pavement on the end of the pin without bending. Nevertheless, given your experience I think I will order a spare pin. It shouldn't be a problem for Hawaii, since we launch from the dock:-)
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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rand
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Re: My new boat

Post by rand » Mon Jul 30, 2012 5:18 pm

Yes don't loose that pin :-) with the way you are doing things, I'd be less concerned with bending the pin, than with tweaking the carbon gudgeons, so pack extra carbon and epoxy too. :-)

Reminds me that I need to get some pins built, still barrow one from Gerry from the last trip to Hawaii!
Rand Arnold
International 14 USA 1143
"A Bumblebee Called Kate"
(former US President, former US Measurer)

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Sun Aug 05, 2012 4:58 am

More photos.
Attachments
017.JPG
Placing tabbing between the flanges and rudder head. Two layers of 200 gm carbon cloth at 45/45 orientation. That's a total of 16 pieces of cloth.
024.JPG
A final layer of 200 gm carbon at 45/45 wrapped around the front edge of the rudder at the tabbing and another over the tows at the G10 bushing.
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Tue Aug 07, 2012 10:49 pm

The gudgeon reinforcement now complete, I have rough cut the G10 tube between the gudgeons. I've allowed space for a 1/8" G10 washer on each gudgeon. These will be fit over the G10 tube, and will carry the vertical forces from the foil. Once the washers are glued in, the G10 tubes will be ground flush with the washers.

I'm moving on to the tiller attachment. I have a carbon fiber tube left over from the rack struts that is a nice tight slip fit over the tiller. First I cut the angle on the rudder head. I just matched the angle on my spare rudder, which has been working fine. I then sealed the exposed core with epoxy. Next steps are to glue the tube onto the rudder head, provide appropriate epoxy fillets, and laminate carbon cloth over the tube and down onto the rudder.
Attachments
I14-8-12 002.jpg
Rudder head ready for the tiller receiving tube. Note the G10 tube cut out between the gudgeons. The spare rudder I've been using up 'til now is in the background
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Thu Aug 09, 2012 5:14 am

This morning I glued on the tiller receiving tube and the G10 gudgeon washers. This evening I added generous thickened epoxy fillets between the receiving tube and the rudder head.
Attachments
006.JPG
Epoxy fillet at the rudder/tiller receiving tube joint. The big lump of epoxy bog at the forward edge will require considerable sanding before the cloth tabbing is added.
008.JPG
The 1/8" G10 washer on the top gudgeon. Identical to the one on the bottom gudgeon.
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Sat Aug 11, 2012 3:09 am

After sanding the fillets smooth and fair, I wrapped the tiller receiving tube with three layers of 200gm carbon cloth. These extended down onto the rudder head. I added a fourth layer over the joint itself, but not wrapped all the way over the tube.
Attachments
001.JPG
Carbon Reinforcement added to the rudder/tiller receiving tube joint.
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Sat Aug 25, 2012 11:29 pm

I put the boat up on its side today and fit the rudder. I little grinding down of the G10 washers was required to let it fit over the bronze pintle carrier. I also ground down the aft end of the cassette or "book" that holds the bronze pintle carrier a bit to allow the rudder to swing freely. Here's a photo of the finished rudder head, less paint.
Attachments
024.JPG
Ready for the ABYC (Long Beach) Labor Day Regatta
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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malasete
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Re: My new boat

Post by malasete » Sun Aug 26, 2012 1:10 am

Steve; That is way to sexy looking for paint!! I vote clear coat.
Cheers
Chris

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rand
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Re: My new boat

Post by rand » Sun Aug 26, 2012 4:22 am

That is real purdy!
Rand Arnold
International 14 USA 1143
"A Bumblebee Called Kate"
(former US President, former US Measurer)

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Thu Nov 08, 2012 11:54 pm

The boat is now back home from Hawaii. The new rudder performed admirably, however, the nut on the tiller needs adjusting :lol:
We managed to run into a reef during the Hawaiian State Championship pursuit race...with the spinnaker up...two wiring. Fortunately, we spotted sand ahead and turned down, so we had taken a little heat off, but we hit the coral going at least 10 kts. Also fortunately for us, we hit multiple heads before coming to a complete stop and capsizing, so it was not like we slammed into a wall. No immediate damage to the boat was apparent, but the over-built Waterat daggerboard was not looking too good (see photos). After floating off the reef, we righted the boat, pulled the daggerboard up so it was bearing on undamaged laminate and headed in. Once in we pulled the cassette and suprise, no damage to the boat or the cassette. Kris Henderson happened to have a new daggerboard available for purchase, so a little work on both the cassette and carbon plate on the bottom of the boat to get them to accept the different foil section, and we were good to go. The boat is still leak free.

At the time, we had passed the eventual 4th place finisher, were bearing down hard on the 3rd place boat and were still way ahead of the eventual winner and second place boat. That was par for the course for our regatta, but sailing includes navigating too. The Exxon Valdez was almost safely in port when they hit a reef...

Now I need to make a new cassette that properly fits the new board, and of course, repair my "spare" daggerboard.
Attachments
I14-11-12 001.jpg
Lots of damage to the leading edge, but this is a very solidly built board
I14-11-12 006.jpg
Close up of the tip and exposed wood core. No structural damage, except...
I14-11-12 009.jpg
at the trailing edge where it crushed against the bottom of the cassette
I14-11-12 012.jpg
And the leading edge where it crushed against the top of the cassette
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Tue Dec 04, 2012 10:40 pm

I'm definitely taking my time with the repair, since I'm happy to be using my new Hendo centerboard. Here's a few photos showing the extent I've had to grind out damaged material. I still have a ways to go before I'm happy that the remaining material is solid.
Attachments
I14-12-12 005.jpg
I14-12-12 001.jpg
I14-12-12 003.jpg
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Wed Jan 23, 2013 9:35 pm

I've finally given up on the forward position for the jib cleat. I know a few like it up there, but I've decided to move it back to a position 3 feet forward of the transom, which seems the current most-popular position. I'm using a simplified variation on the excellent jib cleat system that Hendo makes. This one just has a post with the jibsheet led up the inside from a thru-deck block installed in the side of the post (same basic idea as Hendo's). However, instead of taking a standard Harken swivel cam base, drilling a hole through the base and fabricating a carbon fiber housing for a second through-deck block, I'm using Harken's dou-cam swivel base. This is pricey, but it has the top turning block already built in. I will cut off the extra cam cleat and arm with a hacksaw. If we could just get Harken to make a single cam swivel base with the top turning block, I'm sure it would be cheaper, and a bit lighter to boot. Maybe Hendo and some of the Seattle fleet have the connections to get Harken to consider this.
Attachments
I14-2-12 069.jpg
Here you can see the current jib cleat, way up there, just aft of the centerboard case.
I14-1-13 007.jpg
The post is made from 2" carbon fiber tubing (leftover from the racks). The G10 top plate edge was radiused and carbon cloth wrapped over the top to hold it all together. It wasn't easy wrapping the carbon cloth over the top, but it's amazing what carbon cloth will conform to when it's cut at 45/45. The "legs" are all that is left after I made the cut-out for the centerline kick rail.
I14-1-13 005.jpg
A view inside. The top is 1/2" thick G10, consisting of a 1/4" top at 2" dia., and a 1/4" backer at 1.75" dia. This is drilled and tapped for the mounting screws to avoid having inaccessible nuts and washers. An epoxy fillet was added between the backer and the carbon fiber tube. Note also the 1/4" G10 backer that is drilled and tapped for the top through-deck block mounting screw.
I14-1-13 010.jpg
The through-deck block in place.
I14-1-13 013.jpg
Here, the post is being glued to the centerline kick bar. Prior to gluing, I sanded the paint and non-skid off the kickbar and added two more 200gm carbon layers, for a total of 7. The tabbing I add will further stiffen and strengthen the kickbar where the post is attached.
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Fri Jan 25, 2013 6:57 pm

The post is now structurally complete. It now remains to paint and fasten the hardware.

A 5/16 inch G10 plate was added at the joint between the post and kick bar, to provide some meat to drill and tap for the turning block's lower screw. After providing generous thickened epoxy fillets all around at the joint between post and kickbar, as well as around the G10 plate, I covered the joint with 2 to 3 layers of carbon fiber tabbing, again cut at 45/45 from 200 gm cloth. The whole lot was sanded this morning and coated with clear epoxy. I'm sailing tomorrow at the San Diego One-Design Weekend, so I will hit this with the heat gun tonight to try and get rid of any residual stickyness before screwing on the hardware.
Attachments
I14-1-13 017.jpg
Here the joint has been filleted with thickened epoxy. Note the G10 plate for the turning block's lower machine screw.
I14-1-13 018.jpg
The joint, reinforced with carbon fiber tabbing, has been sanded smooth. Test fitting the Harken Through-deck turning block.
I14-1-13 022.jpg
Coated with epoxy; ready for paint and hardware.
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Re: My new boat

Post by Pirate » Mon Jan 28, 2013 5:42 pm

Shu:

Funny, I am working on a similar fitting. How are you going to modify the swivel cleat to take a block leading the sheet through the center hole?

Matt & Ed
US1112

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Mon Jan 28, 2013 10:24 pm

Ed & Matt,
These photos should clarify it for you. The Harken Dou-Cam is intended to provide two lines to the same location, most likely a mainsheet from above and some other adjustment line (like a backstay?) up through the center from below. I'm using the integral up-through-the-center-from-below feed and turning block along with the upper main cam cleat. I intend to cut off the lower cam cleat and drill out the strap shackle and extra sheeve, as well as generally smooth and clean up the aluminum frame. I had the boat out this weekend and was quite pleased with it. Tacking is very easy, and it works so easily I find I can trim the jib in and out as much as I want. That's a huge change from grunting it in after a tack and then not touching it until the next tack, as I was doing before.

The only disadvantage I found was gybing while I was crewing, I kept whacking it with my heel as I tried to step across the boat, which would stop me cold on the old windward side and result in me grovelling on my knees to get to the new windward side before the boat came over on top of me. I'm sure I just have to change my footwork a bit and I'll be fine, or maybe I should just stay back in the cushy helm position. All things considered, It's a great addition to the boat.
Attachments
I14-1-13 026.jpg
Here it is with the Harken Dou-Cam swivel base attached. I will cut off the lower cam and grind off the top hook on the opposite side of the aluminum frame.
I14-1-13 023.jpg
I think this shows the top turning block sheeve a little better. I intend to drill out the rivets for the second sheeve and the strap shackle.
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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