My new boat

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EdS
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Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: My new boat

Post by EdS » Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:36 pm

Steve,

Going back a long way, were you using the B6 mast when you had the torque issue on your mast step?
and if not did you cs14 have the same lowers mount?

I was just thinking about the way your lowers attach to the mast on the B6 rig and I wondering how much torque is induced by pulling from the front of the rig instead of from a tang directly aligned with the applied tension.
Roaring Forties GBR1524

JakeSkala
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Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:45 am

Re: My new boat

Post by JakeSkala » Thu Jan 31, 2013 5:12 am

Shu and Ed, For what it's worth I used the same Harken part and just cut off the extra bits I didn't need for weight and simplicity. It works great, neither my jib sheet nor knee has gotten hung up on it and the strength is fine sans the extra cam arm. Here's a VERY ugly picture of it at NOODs two years ago when it was first installed in haste. My apologies for adding such an ugly picture to Shu's pages!
Jake Skala
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Jib swivel.jpg

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Thu Jan 31, 2013 11:10 pm

Hi Jake,
I'm a little surprised you cut off the remainder of the aluminum "bridge" that used to be welded to the main cam arm. Does it ever lock up on you and not rotate when under load?

To make it look prettier, take a Sharpy or Magic Marker and blacken the bright aluminum bits to match the anodized aluminum - a bit of boatbuilding cosmetic wisdom from my dad.

As for uglifying this thread, just go back several pages and look at the spinnaker pole sleeve/stem area before I painted it. It will take some seriously ugly stuff to beat that. Besides nothing on that beautiful blue boat of yours is ugly.
-Steve
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Thu Jan 31, 2013 11:27 pm

Ed,
I had the issue with my CST 16 mast. The lowers were attached to the mast tube with t-ball fittings, and were directly in line with the load. I believe it was the action of the main twisting against the upper spreaders that torqued my mast and caused problems with my mast step. I sailed once more with that rig in about 15 knots with no problems once I reinforced the mast step with carbon bars.

The B6 rig has no uppers, and consequently no upper spreaders, so that cannot torque the rig. I never thought about it before, but you are right, the lowers, mounted on the front of the B-6 mast could provide some torque to the rig, but in the opposite direction (the leeward lower being loaded when the main is eased with vang tension applied). That torque would be doubled by an almost equal torque from the gooseneck, which is mounted on the aft side of the mast.
-Steve
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Thu Jan 31, 2013 11:33 pm

Jake, I just realized I sailed the with you on the boat at NOOD two years ago. I guess the cam didn't bind up!
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

Hendo
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Re: My new boat

Post by Hendo » Sat Feb 02, 2013 6:05 am

You guys crack me up, My lowers attach on centerline to the mast and I totally destroyed my carbon mast step in Hawaii, still finished all races , but...
Back at home I now have a Delrin @ (acetal) maststep . we have been attaching the lowers on the front of the mast for years, trying to get more leverage fore and aft.
On a High modules mast, this would be the last thing you would see..

EdS
Posts: 188
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:06 pm
Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: My new boat

Post by EdS » Sat Feb 02, 2013 11:26 pm

Hendo,

Not sure I am with you.....
But i do like the idea of the lowers on the front of the mast ( i haven't seen it before), maybe my previous comment was complete BS, i guess the opposing stay will counteract any rotational force and the moment is tiny anyhow.

Anyway I was just brain dumping as i looked at that part of the thread and wondered what contributed,
the spreaders make more sense for applying the torque.
Roaring Forties GBR1524

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Wed Feb 06, 2013 5:41 pm

Glad we can amuse you, Hendo. I wasn't concerned about the mast, just the mast step.

Changing the subject, here are a few pictures of the Harken Doucam swivel base with all the extra bits ground off. In spite of Jake's success with leaving the turning block on a cantilever, I felt more comfortable with it mounted on a bridge, hence the configuration shown. I just need to spend some time with sandpaper to smooth it all up, followed by a bit of "black" magic with the magic marker, and it will be ready to mount back on the boat.
Attachments
I14-2-13 007.jpg
The welds are on the back side, hence the little bit left protruding there.
I14-2-13 003.jpg
I14-2-13 004.jpg
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Thu Feb 07, 2013 11:59 pm

Here's the swivel cam base all cleaned up and blackened with the cam cleat remounted. Ready to put back on the boat.
Attachments
192.JPG
Harken needs to make this.
187.JPG
197.JPG
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Thu Jul 18, 2013 11:29 pm

I'm finally resuming the repair to my centerboard, which found a reef in Kaneohe Bay last October. I'm basically following Hendo's advice, given when he inspected the damage in Kaneohe.

Since the last photos posted of the repair, I have removed more damaged carbon and cedar core at the trailing edge, down to solid material. Progressive layers of 200gm carbon cloth were used to fill in the resulting dished area; again alternating orientation of the fibers between 0/90 and 45/45. First one side, and after that cured, then the other. The carbon was then sanded flush with the board revealing that more carbon was required to fill in the trailing edge. This morning I added a couple more layers to one side (not pictured). I expect another layer or two will be needed on the other side as well.

The gouges in the leading edge were non-structural, so I just filled them with silica thickened epoxy. The scratches were filled with a thin layer of liquid epoxy. After initial sanding, additional thickened epoxy was used to fill in the remaining low spots. This second layer included a small amount of microballoons to ease the sanding effort. There were still a few low spots, so a third layer was added to those this morning. Those of you who have followed this thread know that I seem unable to properly fill and fair without at least 3 layers of fairing compound, so this is typical.
Attachments
I147-13 003.jpg
The biggest damage, where the leading and trailing edges contact the cassette. The chip at the top of the trailing edge was from a previous unknown altercation, while the board was under the care of it's former owner.
I147-13 001.jpg
Close up of the trailing edge repair. Note the progressively smaller patches of carbon cloth.
I147-13 007.jpg
Trailing edge after trimming but before sanding. This still needs a few more layers to completely fill in the trailing edge.
I147-13 006.jpg
Gouges in the leading edge filled with thickened epoxy; scratches filled with liquid epoxy.
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Fri Oct 17, 2014 11:59 pm

This is a bump to help McGhan find my control line routing
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

matt d
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Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2006 4:48 pm

Re: My new boat

Post by matt d » Mon Oct 20, 2014 6:09 pm

Shu, with this setup, how is the release of control lines. For example when your crew blows the vang, does it run freely, or does it automatically cleat itself, thus requiring the crew to feed some slack?

Thanks,

Matt

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Shu
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Re: My new boat

Post by Shu » Wed Oct 22, 2014 12:55 am

Matt,
It recleats automatically, which is really nice when pulling it on. We have to release it one "handful" at a time, unless I take the main, then the crew can release it hand over hand. The re-cleating is a nice feature: if (when) I accidently drop it, it recleats before too much line goes out, which has averted disaster in the past.
-Steve
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

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