GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

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EdS
Posts: 188
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:06 pm
Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Sun Sep 14, 2014 7:41 pm

Pow was definitely fun. In a sort of we should be windsurfing kind of way.

The boat held together fairly well, a mast inversion on a reach took some mast track off.
The windiest day we had a fairly good race with no swims until 50m from the finish the boom failed. Not alot you can do, but we were gutted not to get over the line.

It failed on a 2 sail reach because we overstood the leeward mark. around 20knot on the gps hopping over the waves and when we went into a wave the loads increased and it snapped.

I am fairly sure it has been weakened from touching the shrouds in the past, because it failed ont he windward side and folded away to leeward and up at the GNAV
Attachments
image.jpg
image.jpg
Last edited by EdS on Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
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EdS
Posts: 188
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:06 pm
Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Sun Sep 14, 2014 7:43 pm

Inner sleeve fabrication

I tried to expand a single wrap of carbon on an inner tube, but ended up with frankentube twice.

So the method i used was to do an external wrap. cut it along the horizontal plane at the mid height on both sides.
prep the flanges and apply spabond, then place each end the oposing end of the broke boom.
i order to allow for a couple of external layers of carbon a gap was intentionally put in.
Attachments
image.jpg
Take three step 1
image.jpg
Failed inner sleeve construction
Last edited by EdS on Tue Sep 16, 2014 8:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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EdS
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Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Sun Sep 14, 2014 7:46 pm

Inner sleeve completed.

The two piece sleeve was covered with two layers of 45/45 300g plain weave.

The ends were cleaned up and it is a tightish fit in the tube, bit of movement up and down but tight laterally.
Attachments
image.jpg
Part three other angle
image.jpg
Take three post 45/45 over wraps
Last edited by EdS on Tue Sep 16, 2014 8:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
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EdS
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Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:06 pm
Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Sun Sep 14, 2014 7:49 pm

20mm taper done by hand (because my grinder is in Norway)

Oval shape makes it more challenging for those with my lower level of skill but i think it went ok
Attachments
image.jpg
Different angle
image.jpg
Sleeve bonded in and ends tapered
Last edited by EdS on Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
Roaring Forties GBR1524

EdS
Posts: 188
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:06 pm
Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Sun Sep 14, 2014 7:54 pm

Thanks to Glen for the lay up advice

Lay up
1 x 0/90 200g plain
7 x layers of 0 300g uni
1 x layer of 0/90 200g plain

There was an additional layer of uni but I chickened out on lay up due to the thickness prior to vacuum. School boy and it might have got rig of the dents in the laminate
Attachments
image.jpg
The other side
image.jpg
After first cure, notice the sink wrinkles which are a bit upsetting.
Last edited by EdS on Tue Sep 16, 2014 8:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
Roaring Forties GBR1524

EdS
Posts: 188
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Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Sun Sep 14, 2014 7:55 pm

Over wrap of unis to fill dents, most of which were sanded away.

Now all that is left is to vac unis on the bottom to stiffen the boom (maybe) and then do a long wrap at 45/45 to spread the torsional loads down the boom

I have been considering how to implement a standard vang or lever style vang in the near future, so i am considering what other reinforcement might be required.
Attachments
image.jpg
image.jpg
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EdS
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Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Sat Oct 25, 2014 7:41 pm

A couple of questions for you.

what is the target leech tension that should be aimed for? is circa 85-110 kilos about right)

i am doing some maths on the different kicker options and in order to work out the moments i need a target leech leach.

i am also after the following estimated info if someone wouldnt mind sharing

average mainsail foot length (sorry i live in a different country to my boat and cant measure it easily or atall)

gnav
- gnav length
- gooseneck to gnav gooseneck length (65cm on my mast)

lever vang
-lever length
-position of lever vang strop from gooseneck

kicker
- gooseneck to kicker mount on boom
- goosneck to kicker mount on mast or boat

I have done inital calculations based on 45 degree Gnavs and 60cm lever arms here are the initial results
Attachments
kicker loads.JPG
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EdS
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Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Sun Oct 26, 2014 6:56 pm

Is using soda blasting to strip a hull painted with acrylic paint a stupid idea?

the outside of the boat is only the topsides which i can longboard, the bottom is epoxy primer only.

the cockpig and decks is soft car paint which comes off reasonably easy, but it will take a long period by hand. any reason not to soda blast the int
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EdS
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Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Thu Mar 19, 2015 11:01 am

So after 12 month of being left under a tarpaulin and 1450km on the road the boat has arrived.

I need some help. I want to turn SWISS CHEESE into a slab of CHEDDAR.

The mast is a Selden IM mast with rivetted fittings. all the fittings are coming off due to rivet issues and bonded spreaders are going on and laminated goosneck etc in a different position.

How should i go about reinforcing and repairing the old holes?

Thanks in advance
Attachments
10985905_10100438878937124_9093910458197983511_n.jpg
New shroud attachments. Rod bonded into the gunwhales. this is post laminate pre fettling.
11041745_10100440050634034_8646879318393520579_n.jpg
Before you ask she isnt that over weight. just poor placement of a lathe in the car
Roaring Forties GBR1524

EdS
Posts: 188
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:06 pm
Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Sat Mar 21, 2015 8:14 pm

Good day today. Removed all the fitting from the mast.
Stripped the mast track off. Another 60cm was damaged from last low.
Removing the spa bond adhesive was a pain, but the whole lot is off now.

The other reason for taking the track off was to remove the plastic donut selden use as part of the mast joint.
I am going to taper the end of the tubes and larminate the joint.

I have made a partial sleeve to slide in to help me repair the holes at the hounds and the mast head.

Image

Image

Image

And this is the result this far. The taper needs some hoop reinforcement and I have one further T terminal hole to backfill.

Image
Image

Image

The next step is to make the forestay attachment and the mast head crane for the spinnaker halyard.
Last edited by EdS on Tue Mar 24, 2015 10:14 am, edited 2 times in total.
Roaring Forties GBR1524

EdS
Posts: 188
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:06 pm
Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:26 am

So a couple of questions.

- How would you attach dyneema caps to the top of the mast if you dont have T terminals

- on a boom how would you go about making the gooseneck spiggot female?
Tube and then laminate into the shape of the boom or is there a better method?

- Forestay attachment.
The shrouds are going to be mounted to a tube running through the mast. i was thinking of using the tube as a reference and making a carbon lashing around an antal ring as the forestay attachment. so basically it will be bonded around the mast and using the tube as a something to wrap the unis around.
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EdS
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Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:06 pm
Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Sat Mar 28, 2015 8:13 pm

So how long is a tiller.

I sold mine rudder and stock in the UK and foolishly didnt take down the major dimensions.

Also how would you go about repairing trailing edge damage on a dagger board, it is quite spread out, so I was thinking I need to grind the local area back then laminate in and fair back to shape. Is that the right idea?
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Shu
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Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by Shu » Mon Mar 30, 2015 4:38 pm

Ed,
I think your tube idea for the gooseneck is the right way to go. Glue it to the top inside of the boom and then reinforce the heck out of it with tabbing. My boom has a full-depth web from the gooseneck out past the vang attachment. the first 4 inches is solid carbon fiber laminate. I drilled a hole through the laminate, and added more reinforcement tabbing. It worked, but the tube idea sounds cleaner. Make it very strong, as this is one of the most highly loaded points on the boat.

A through bolt for the cap shroud attachments should work. As for the rest of your questions, I would like to hear some ideas from others, as I don't think my ideas are that great.
-Steve
Steve Shumaker
USA 1183

EdS
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Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:06 pm
Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Fri Apr 03, 2015 7:31 pm

Feeling quite pleased today.

The boom repair is complete. bar new fittings for the lever vang which will come shortly.

There were some extra steps, additional 0 axis stiffening and radial 90 for hoop for the increased point loads.

on a different note.

has anyone tried a clew height adjustment where the jib haylard and cunningham are the same rope.
you tension both at the turn around block. then have a spliced in tale of dyneema on the hlayrd side going towards the bow allowing the whole jib to readily move up and down.

there could be a major advantage on 2 sail reached, assuming you want leech control.

i currently have independent halyard and cunningham and i dont both trying to adjust, just use the clew board.
Attachments
IMG_3615.JPG
boom repair finished
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EdS
Posts: 188
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:06 pm
Boat Number: GBR 1524

Re: GBR1524 TLC and control line changes

Post by EdS » Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:04 am

I need a bit of help from anyone who has put together or taken up the cockpit floor in a B5.

My floor is nomex and needs some live, it looks like there might be two longitudinal joins in the floor.

having looked at the carbonology build photos those B5 have three piece floors, is that by design and if so the middle panel is alot stiffer?

another question is suggestion on something to use to mould kick bars from? thinking maybe foam or folding steel, but i am sure there is a better way.
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